A Cracking Day

Monday September 12

An interesting breakfast......a cup of green tea with a sachet of honey as sweetener, was surprisingly pleasant. The bread ‘sandwich’ topped with ham and cheese  is becoming familiar. The interesting part was watching the two tabby kittens chase, play fight, leap up small palms, use our luggage as a take-off platform and generally have fun.
To-day was travel day to our next destination, the central part between Eastern and Western Rhodope. All I remember is an endless succession of hairpin bends, climbing steadily along valleys bordered by forests and along rivers until the first stop at the very small skiing resort of Pamporovo. We were glad to stretch our legs at a flatter area with wide views, 

one large hotel and a roadside full of Colchicums, echiums and Chicory - amongst the rubbish left by passing motorists.

 

 

Pam amongst the Colchicums

Our first Mistle Thrush of the trip but not the hoped for Pallid Swifts which breed here. They must have gone. The air was appreciably cooler too.
The trip took four hours, the Hotel Orfei (Orpheus) was a welcome sight. Set in a narrow valley, backed and fronted by vertiginous cliffs where Chamois have been seen, an attractive alpine looking building. We had lunch outside seeing a Wall Lizard, a brown striped butterfly and a large Emperor type Dragonfly.
Pam's photo

The next three hours, from 2-5 p.m. were spent scanning the Trigad Gorge, a deep narrow chasm cut by the river Trogradska. At the apex of the gorge the river plunges into a cave - the Devil’s Throat - re-appearing further down the gorge. In an attempt to discover what had happened to parts of a wooden bridge which were washed down the throat and never re-appeared, the water was dyed. The coloured water did not come out at the bottom for 3 hours. Calculating the speed of the water etc, it was worked out that it had travelled 25 K !! Where?
Photography was a lost challenge - the contrast between the sunlit parts and the deeply grey rock in the shade was too great 

What we were looking for were these beauties. Picture taken from a poster.

No luck to-day, they’ve probably already flown to a lower altitude for the winter.
We did see the leaves of an endemic flower (another poster pic),

a Marsh Tit, Alpine Swifts, a juvenile Black Redstart and many Chaffinches.
On to the village of Trigrad where we stopped to check for Pallid Swifts. A cry of ‘’Look, look here’’ from Minko sent us across the road and down the hill a bit to see two Spotted Nutcrackers visit a Hazel tree, find some nuts, fly back to deep shade in a tall fir tree to thwack the nut on a branch until they could - very efficiently - swallow the kernel whole. 

Spectacular looking birds, I hope for better photos in better light. We also saw Pallid Swifts.On through Trigrad for a most enjoyable evening session along a single track road, following a small river, pastures on both sides most of the time. Dozens of Chaffinches in winter flocks, at least 50 Mistle Thrushes, Jays, Green and Greater Spotted Woodpeckers, a pair of Bullfinches and four Black-bellied Dippers. Absolutely lovely.

Not back at the hotel until 6.40 to find our adequate room, nowhere to sit and nowhere for my laptop set up. Worst of all, I couldn’t get internet access. I am assured that everyone else has it !! 
I must try downstairs to-morrow - the connection keeps coming and going

It Started With a Budgie

Sunday September 11

I decided that a 6.30 departure for the chance of seeing a Chukar Partridge was not a good idea - we've seen one before anyway. 7.30 breakfast........no breakfast, no sign of any workers, we're the only guests. We drove to a coffee shop in nearby Krumovgrad and ended up with what looked like - and tasted like - a slice of pizza. That, plus a small cardboard cup one third full of black coffee. The cups are always that empty and milk is thought to be a peculiar request.

Pam called a bird, Spotted Flycatcher, as we crossed a bridge, stopping for that made us notice a lovely blue Budgerigar pecking at an upright. Minko was very excited, this is a first for Bulgaria. Yes, we all know that it's an escaped bird. Part of the fun.

Our destination lay along a valley bordered by fields of cropped tobacco. The soil is poor here but tobacco grows. The leaves have all been harvested leaving bare spikes with a flower on the top. Cattle and sheep grazing amongst it gave rise to pre-smoked meat type comments. The leaves are dried on large wooden platforms and then covered with polythene.

Taking a track climbing a hillside, we parked below cliffs typical of Chukar territory and waited, scanning the whole time. The river plain below was again almost devoid of water, occasional birds alleviating the tedium. As did yet another lone Levant Sparrowhawk. Poor migration but we've done much better than average for this species. The usual silhouette only pic. with no ID features at all. A ''record shot'' indeed.

The ever hardworking Minko got us animated, he'd got a Chukar Partridge in my scope. It was way on top of the cliff peering over the edge, looking very good in the scope.

The whole of this Eastern Rhodope region is populated by Turks, a remnant of the Ottoman Empire. We drove an ever rougher track to a remote Turkish Village which didn't have a sign so is nameless to us. So many houses in the area are either partially built, unoccupied or crumbling. Such a shame. I don't know if there was electricity, no wires showing, there was a well on the outskirts. We added our first Black Redstart of the trip and had good views of a very active group of Sombre Tits.

Yet another off road excursion, he drives very considerately, gave good views of Whinchat

 and a juvenile Lord Voldemort (Red-backed Shrike) .

 A roadside, blue flowered, bush brought us to a hasty stop. It was full of butterflies of at least four varieties. So active, never settling for more than a second or two. Frustrating. I got some photos but none of them publishable, they may be useful for identifying.This was the only flower within sight, hence its popularity.

Lunch was at Hotel Diva, the usual Neophron stopping place, back in Krumovgrad. Turkish owners, Turkish spoken everywhere and food with a Turkish bias. We all had chicken bits in soy sauce with mushrooms and fried potatoes. Tasty - and we all smelt of garlic.

The afternoon was spent on a high plateau with tremendous views over the other vulture nesting cliffs. The first stop brought a surprise Golden Eagle perched on a pylon. The previous pair - which did not appear - specialised in eating tortoises. They caught them, dropped them from a height to crack the shell and then ate the contents. Like the Herring Gull with Mussells at Brancaster Staithe only on a bigger scale.

The end stop was stunning, again the Autumn colours enhancing the views. 

A map of the area

I can only imagine what it's like in Spring when covered in orchids and alpine type flowers. Now we had prickly dried vegetation, all of it spiky. Whilst waiting, we wandered about finding dragonflies, I photographed one at last,

the occasional tiny blue flower, grasshoppers 

and insects.

Pam and Minko botanising 

The show began. Thirty five Griffon Vultures spiralling in on the thermals, Ravens amongst them, kettling (rising together in a spiral) and drifting effortlessly away. The hoped for Black Vulture was seen early yesterday morning but, not by us. 

We were given the option of driving nearer to the nesting site which we gladly accepted. A circuitous route along a dammed river, basalt cliffs reminiscent of Fingals Cave beside the road.

Minko's Suzuki 4x4 does very well on the incredibly rough tracks he uses, this one, one of the worst. He usually walks this section. I saw a movement on a jumble of rocks which turned out to be a truly stunning, adult Black-eared Wheatear in full summer plumage. So bright that it might be the Western sub species rather than the usual Eastern found here. Too distant for a good photograph.

On the return jolt, FIVE Chukar partridges scuttled away from only 10 metres in front of us. The decision not to get up extra early vindicated.

Off to higher ground to-morrow , for another two night stay. 

MAMMALS

Until three days ago, all the mammals we'd seen had been dead. I told Minko that he was running an Obituary Safari. First the Horned Viper, then Golden Jackal, Polecat and Beech Marten. The first still breathing were Susliks ( Meercat type beasts), then one brown Red Squirrel. Pam saw a Brown Hare and a Weasel whilst sitting in the front seat. To-day we had three Roe Deer, one of them pure white.

Cliffs and Vultures

Saturday September 10

Leaving our only one night stay Hotel wasn't a hardship, although the Russian lady who served us breakfast was delightful. The usual continental cheese, sausage sp. and bread offering plus hard boiled eggs (cold). We both had one dry slice with cheese and another with unidentifiable jam. Minko went off to get our luggage as always - he's a good man - and Tatiana turned up with three bags containing something hot and savoury which we took away and ate late morning. Bread topped by a slice of ham covered in toasted cheese. It was very good cold.

M had seen Syrian Woodpeckers at the garage this morning. No sign when we arrived but, one flew through. A flying view at least.

A lovely drive through stunning mountain scenery, the acers already in their Autumn colour. We crossed two rivers which are tributaries of what becomes Greece's Evros and its fantastic delta. Due to the drought, rivers look like this.

One high area had been devastated by an extensive fire a mere two months ago. So sad, the first time M had seen it since. There were still the inevitable Shrikes and Spotted Flycatchers on the charcoal branches, a couple of Woodchat shrikes in addition to the Lord Voldemorts this morning. 

Cirl Buntings in a winter flock were a surprise and a delight. Good views of Lesser Spotted and Syrian Woodpecker eventually.

We arrived at the vulture nesting cliffs at 11.00 a.m. I'm sure that M was horrified to find ONE Egyptian Vulture perched high - but pleased to see one as he thought that they would have left by now. We sat at a stone table and benches surveying the scene, a river valley below, high rugged cliffs to the right.

Pam's photo

A very short time later, the Griffon Vultures started to sail in, I never saw any of them flap their wings in the couple of hours we were there. Giant sailplanes majestically surveying the world below them. My photos do not do them justice as all were taken from below, silhouettes against a pretty dull sky.

A second Egyptian Vulture joined the first, the only pair on this cliff and migratory whereas the Griffons are resident. There are 60+ pairs of the latter on the two sites in the area. They tried to introduce them in another area but they left and flew to this one ! 

A Black Stork was another photographic problem for the same reason, viewed from below against the light. 

The hurtling Crag Martins, constantly cruising the cliffs and swooping past us, were beyond my abilities.

The weather map yesterday was scattered with 28C temperatures  for the region, maybe I've underestimated the previous heat. When the sun came out, we were roasting, no shade.  I was reminded of Jax's story about phoning Dimiter, asking for cold beer as they were thirsty.

Despite M trying hard, we only heard Rock Nuthatch and Rock Bunting, not new birds for us so not a problem.

The rest of the afternoon was spent travelling towards the Hotel Enigma, birding as we went. A very wide and almost completely dry river bed - again a new experience for M - had one puddle below us, where we enjoyed finding and photographing Marsh Frogs.

We passed some splendid basalt cliffs, reminiscent of Fingal's Cave and The Giant's Causeway which I hope to photograph to-morrow.

These cliffs, full of niches, trace back over 2,000 years to Thracian times.

One town had commisioned a mural of an Egyptian Vulture on the side of an apartment block. Good painting of the head but why the egg containing a human baby, bottom left? I could surmise.......

The Hotel Enigma is different from the ones usually used in this town, the usual ones are full because of a wedding. Our room is adequate if sparse. Very large shower/wet room, working aircon and WiFi but, no bedside tables and lamps.

Supper was good. The menu was in Bulgarian only so we depended on Minko to translate and recommend. The usual Shopska salad for me - tomato, cucumber, onion, peppers, sprinkled with cheese and topped by an olive. We then shared a sizzling dish of pork bits, a good selection of various vegetables and cheesy chips. In these rural areas, chips are always served sprinkled with cheese. We're not complaining. We did share some meat with an adult cat and her two delightful kittens. Wouldn't dream of feeding from the table at home.
The only butterflies identified to-day were the tiny Small Bath Whites so called because a tapestry in the city of Bath had identifiable pictures of their larger cousins, the Bath Whites.
 
We've tried to find the place names but failed - the map doesn't have them, nor the itinerary - we shall have to buttonhole Minko armed with pen and paper to-morrow.

Raptor Fest

Friday September 9

Reluctantly saying goodbye to our very comfortable hotel with excellent food, we set off for Eastern Rhodope, an area of hills, upland pasture and woods. Another lone Black Stork was the only highlight until we'd left industrial Burgos behind.

At 10.00 - Pam checked her watch - Minko called a raptor, thinking it might be a Black Kite. Oh no it wasn't. It was our first Eastern Imperial Eagle of the day. I took some good photos - I checked at the time. BUT all those and subsequent shots I took to-day vanished when I transferred them to my laptop. Words cannot describe my disappointment.

We saw 6 seperate Imperials to-day.  The first a  surprise but not unexpected, the second a total surprise, the next three were two adults and this year's young, soaring near a nesting site. An adult bird perched on a pylon was probably one of the adults previously seen.

Before lunch, from a higher viewpoint near the town of Topolovgrad, overlooking pasture, cultivated fields, a small reservoir and mixed herds of sheep, goats and cows with their attendant shepherds, we saw:

Booted Eagle, pale morph, 4 White-tailed Eagles soaring together, Levant Sparrowhawk, Black Kite, Montagu's and Marsh Harrier and a Kestrel. 

In between times, Pam found a lovely dragonfly of which she has very good photos, probably a female Red-lined Darter,

and remarked on ants at the top of tall plants.  Cue Minko, who had studied this as part of his Biology degree, telling us about a hepatica flatworm species which infests the liver of grazing animals. Their eggs appear in the animal dung, ants are then infected by the eggs. The eggs make them climb to the top of plants which makes them more accessible to munching animals when the cycle starts again. I think I've got the gist of it, will check online sometime.

After an iffy lunch at the Hotel Imperial, we drove a forested area where logging was evident, seeing Peregrine, Sparrowhawk, Tree Pipit, Red-breasted Flycatcher, Spotted Flycatchers are frequent, the inevitable Shrikes and families of common British birds including Blackbird. Again we heard several woodpecker calls but only saw one Green Woodpecker flying up the road in front of us. Another Hawfinch seen gives me an excuse to include other pics from yesterday.

Minko photographing

An as yet unidentified butterfly taken from the car window with my long lens.

Another raptor viewing point very near this morning's brought more raptors, none of them different. It's been great to-day - apart from the photos.
We keep seeing butterflies but seldom have the opportunity to photograph them. A stop roadside this morning when we couldn't get out - too dangerous - brought good enough views of what proved to be Pale Clouded Yellows. Pam's photo.

Our room for the one night in Topolovgrad's Hotel Imperial is spacious, has three beds and air con with free WiFi. The three flights of steep steps up to it are not ideal !  This town is not attractive, it looks poor with verges in need of clearing and strewn with rubbish. Its attraction is the Imperial Eagle nest - its sign says so. Where to to-morrow?

Lunch With a Shady Hawfinch

Thursday September 8

Still no sign of any migration at the coast. Very disappointing, it was to be a highlight for me. We drove inland to a hilly area to check whether- or not - the easterly wind had driven raptors inland. Driving offroad, we parked in the shade looking down a meadow and across to a series of hills and ridges. The 'chairs' provided by Dimiter were far too low for me - and decrepit.

One dark phase Booted Eagle - the rarer phase and our second of that phase,  one Short-toed Eagle, one Honey Buzzard, 1 Montagu's Harrier, one Hobby and a few Marsh Harriers and Buzzards. Better than nothing.

The highlight was a flock of several hundred migrating White Pelicans,  spiralling and constantly changing formation over the forest. Lovely.

Moving higher up the mountain, another offroad trek across a vast area of apparently barren brown grassland - until we noticed the melons and gourds nestled amongst the grass. I thought that the gourds were stones......

Our first adult male Red Backed Shrike

The juveniles are so numerous - and Pam called them all - that they've been christened Lord Voldemort, 'he who must not be named'.

Given a choice, we decided to eat our packed lunch somewhere up here. Minko pulled off to a small litter strewn area beside the road where we could park in the shade. Almost immediately, birds appeared. Sombre Tit, Chiffchaff, Greenfinch, Chaffinch, Blue Tit, Jays Blackbirds and the best of all, a Hawfinch. The latter returned to feast on a Pendulous Birch tree's seeds, although annoyingly shaded all of the time.

Perhaps the lake we visited a couple of days ago was worth another visit. No Bee-eaters this time. 

Mixed herds always have at least one shepherd + dog (s) in attendance. Pam's photo.

The lone White Stork was still in the marsh, its badly broken right wing obvious. Will it survive the winter?  A Great White Egret and a few Spoonbills idled on the shore

A small blue flower showed well amongst the thistles and dy weeds. A Litrumu? salicaria (M's handwriting). The plough here looks like it's been turfed up in giant lumps and scattered haphazardly. Good for hiding birds !

I've tried at every opportunity to get a decent photo of a Crested Lark with its crest erect. Here's another less than successful attempt.

 Back to the Salt Museum area, where birds could be guaranteed, via a shop to buy some fruit for me. The Broadbilled Sandpiper was there again as was a Curlew Sandpiper. I managed to get some better photos this time as the light was better, shame I couldn't climb down much closer like Minko.

Fewer people mudlarking to-day, fewer birds too but, very enjoyable.

This was the last chance to photograph Daurian Jackdaws, the eastern race of Common Jackdaw. They're always on a busy roundabout in the middle of Burgas. We stopped long enough for me to snatch a few photos.The silver shoulder patch is diagnostic.

On to the Eastern Rhodope Mountains for our only one night stay to-morrow. After another hot day, we're hoping for somewhere cooler. We keep being told how unseasonal and unusual it is.

.

Woodpecker Fest

Wednesday September 7

The journey took us south west of Burgas to a relict beech forest very close to the Turkish border. This ancient woodland is Bulgaria's oldest nature reserve. 

It's called a mountain and we did climb well above sea level but, it's really a high hilly area.

At the first opportunity, Minko braked, calling ''Black Woodpecker''. I saw it, briefly, fly past the car into the nearest trees. He then started playing its calls and thez bird responded - not usual in the non breeding season- flying back across the road and then down in front of us for several seconds view of this huge black bird. Fantastic, a world tick for us.

Other woodpeckers heard at our various stops were: Grey-headed, Lesser Spotted, Syrian, Green, Middle-spotted and Great Spotted.
A Chinese Lantern type seed head is apparently that of a Fritillary sp. Minko will ask his girlfriend. We're too late for the Orchids, of course.

Passing through an attractive village, we stood on a bridge, eventually seeing a Syrian Woodpecker, Grey Wagtail , Blackcap, Willow Warbler and several elusive butterflies. Many fish viewable below us but no-one knows what they are. A ponderous and ancient Russian troop carrier shuddered the bridge, the border is very sensitive because of the migrants from Syria. At a police control, Minko had to show five different documents.

 Our sandwich packed lunch was eaten in a clearing near the river, an area dotted with trees which produced enough passerines to provide a lunchtime cabaret. A migrant Redstart still had remnants of its summer plumage.

Spotted Flycatcher, Chiffchaff and - to Minko's delight - his fourth only Garden Warbler. A pair of Ravens patrolled the sky, a Common Buzzard made a brief appearance and Goldfinches twittered an accompaniment.

A cold drink stop, although it was cooler up there with a lot of cloud cover to-day, before descending to the heavy traffic of urban Burgas and the lake where Pam wanted to see some more Pelicans. Not the spectacle we expected but a few were near enough for some photos - amongst the uncountable numbers of Coots, against the evening light.

Two Squacco Herons huddled in the reeds and a young Pelican practiced fishing.

A few Whiskered Terns patrolled the lake shore.

We were pleased to get back to-night, we're both tired. It's the intensive activity and the sun.
Not to mention my knees...........