It Started With a Budgie

Sunday September 11

I decided that a 6.30 departure for the chance of seeing a Chukar Partridge was not a good idea - we've seen one before anyway. 7.30 breakfast........no breakfast, no sign of any workers, we're the only guests. We drove to a coffee shop in nearby Krumovgrad and ended up with what looked like - and tasted like - a slice of pizza. That, plus a small cardboard cup one third full of black coffee. The cups are always that empty and milk is thought to be a peculiar request.

Pam called a bird, Spotted Flycatcher, as we crossed a bridge, stopping for that made us notice a lovely blue Budgerigar pecking at an upright. Minko was very excited, this is a first for Bulgaria. Yes, we all know that it's an escaped bird. Part of the fun.

Our destination lay along a valley bordered by fields of cropped tobacco. The soil is poor here but tobacco grows. The leaves have all been harvested leaving bare spikes with a flower on the top. Cattle and sheep grazing amongst it gave rise to pre-smoked meat type comments. The leaves are dried on large wooden platforms and then covered with polythene.

Taking a track climbing a hillside, we parked below cliffs typical of Chukar territory and waited, scanning the whole time. The river plain below was again almost devoid of water, occasional birds alleviating the tedium. As did yet another lone Levant Sparrowhawk. Poor migration but we've done much better than average for this species. The usual silhouette only pic. with no ID features at all. A ''record shot'' indeed.

The ever hardworking Minko got us animated, he'd got a Chukar Partridge in my scope. It was way on top of the cliff peering over the edge, looking very good in the scope.

The whole of this Eastern Rhodope region is populated by Turks, a remnant of the Ottoman Empire. We drove an ever rougher track to a remote Turkish Village which didn't have a sign so is nameless to us. So many houses in the area are either partially built, unoccupied or crumbling. Such a shame. I don't know if there was electricity, no wires showing, there was a well on the outskirts. We added our first Black Redstart of the trip and had good views of a very active group of Sombre Tits.

Yet another off road excursion, he drives very considerately, gave good views of Whinchat

 and a juvenile Lord Voldemort (Red-backed Shrike) .

 A roadside, blue flowered, bush brought us to a hasty stop. It was full of butterflies of at least four varieties. So active, never settling for more than a second or two. Frustrating. I got some photos but none of them publishable, they may be useful for identifying.This was the only flower within sight, hence its popularity.

Lunch was at Hotel Diva, the usual Neophron stopping place, back in Krumovgrad. Turkish owners, Turkish spoken everywhere and food with a Turkish bias. We all had chicken bits in soy sauce with mushrooms and fried potatoes. Tasty - and we all smelt of garlic.

The afternoon was spent on a high plateau with tremendous views over the other vulture nesting cliffs. The first stop brought a surprise Golden Eagle perched on a pylon. The previous pair - which did not appear - specialised in eating tortoises. They caught them, dropped them from a height to crack the shell and then ate the contents. Like the Herring Gull with Mussells at Brancaster Staithe only on a bigger scale.

The end stop was stunning, again the Autumn colours enhancing the views. 

A map of the area

I can only imagine what it's like in Spring when covered in orchids and alpine type flowers. Now we had prickly dried vegetation, all of it spiky. Whilst waiting, we wandered about finding dragonflies, I photographed one at last,

the occasional tiny blue flower, grasshoppers 

and insects.

Pam and Minko botanising 

The show began. Thirty five Griffon Vultures spiralling in on the thermals, Ravens amongst them, kettling (rising together in a spiral) and drifting effortlessly away. The hoped for Black Vulture was seen early yesterday morning but, not by us. 

We were given the option of driving nearer to the nesting site which we gladly accepted. A circuitous route along a dammed river, basalt cliffs reminiscent of Fingals Cave beside the road.

Minko's Suzuki 4x4 does very well on the incredibly rough tracks he uses, this one, one of the worst. He usually walks this section. I saw a movement on a jumble of rocks which turned out to be a truly stunning, adult Black-eared Wheatear in full summer plumage. So bright that it might be the Western sub species rather than the usual Eastern found here. Too distant for a good photograph.

On the return jolt, FIVE Chukar partridges scuttled away from only 10 metres in front of us. The decision not to get up extra early vindicated.

Off to higher ground to-morrow , for another two night stay. 

MAMMALS

Until three days ago, all the mammals we'd seen had been dead. I told Minko that he was running an Obituary Safari. First the Horned Viper, then Golden Jackal, Polecat and Beech Marten. The first still breathing were Susliks ( Meercat type beasts), then one brown Red Squirrel. Pam saw a Brown Hare and a Weasel whilst sitting in the front seat. To-day we had three Roe Deer, one of them pure white.