Last Day Search

Thursday September 15 

Breakfast at 8.00 accompanied by both Minko and Dimiter. DIY buffet including make your own toast. A coffee machine, Button 1 = coffee, Button 2 = coffee with milk, we were told.

A longish urban drive, about fifty minutes long, took us out of Sofia to a hilly, steppe type region with a medium size marsh. The aim was Long-legged Buzzard, no-one told the Buzzard. The only birds we saw here were Common Buzzards, a large flock of Tree Sparrows and Corn Buntings and a Marsh Harrier. The highlight was the most butterflies we've seen this year, all very worn end of season insects, mostly using a small, bushy, blue- flowered plant. They led us a merry dance and some are still to be positively identified.

Queen of Spain Fritillary

Marbled White female

Small Heath

A very wounded soldier !

The highlight for Minko was three Mercedes D class military vehicles, his most wanted birding car. As was seeing his first leucistic Red-backed Shrike. Distant, but stood out like a sore thumb, he will not have a long life.

A field near the marsh held Purple and Grey Herons  and five Great White Egrets.

Too early for lunch, we drove on to Dragoman Marsh, a larger area of reeds with some water showing, where we drove the usual rutted track and plough to an old runway in the middle. We heard Bearded Reedlings but saw nothing.

On the drive out, I'd noticed some hexagonal shaped pens on the hillside. Minko read the notice, which was in Cyrillic only, which stated that it was a breeding site for tortoises, to be re-located in appropriate areas. We asked if he would stop on the way back. I couldn't see any tortoises in the honeycomb-like constructions.......it was  rather distant.

Lunch was slow and pleasant. To-day is first day back at school, all of which have two shifts here, morning and afternoon. The morning shift teachers were having lunch together at this resaurant, seated at a long table, about 25 of them. I think the cook did very well considering the menu wasn't restricted.

Ever thoughtful Minko went off to get the car, motioning us to use a side entrance. A stroke of luck. Eagle-eyed Pam noticed this Praying Mantis at the side of the path. Brilliant.

Given the choice of either returning to the marsh area or, driving up Vitosha Mountain, we chose the mountain. At 40k an hour the steep climb through forest and on a small brick-shaped stone, cobbled road took 25 minutes. 

This is a nature preserve established by Boris the Third,  about 1904.

A ski area in the winter, it all looks dilapidated at the top. A few cafes - all closed - a hotel, First Aid Centre and some rough hewn benches and chairs. Some people were walking down from the 2,000 metre peak, refreshing themselves at the ever present water outlets, changing sweaty clothes in some instances. Not many birds around so we people-watched. Especially two workmen shovelling up a previously destroyed old terrace, filling wheelbarrows with the stone  before giving them an almighty shove down a ramp into a skep, releasing and up twisting the handles so that the barrows landed upside down.  The noise !!

In the end we had views of Spotted Nutcracker, one of them, legs akimbo on top of a pine, 30+ Common Crossbills, both Gold and Firecrests, heard Black Woodpecker and saw some common passerines.

An enjoyable day - as always.

A last meal with Minko before retiring to our room. We decided that we didn't want to bird in the morning, he will pick us up from here and take us straight to the airport for the flight to Luton and home. It gives us some relaxing time to pack.

Neophron Tours put together a great package for us and Minko is a very good birder with a great sense of humour. We've thoroughly enjoyed his company and skill.

Not a Lot

Wednesday September 14

 We arrived at the Hotel Tulip  on the outskirts of Sofia at 4.00 p.m. after a rather tedious day. The start of a long drive was scenic enough,through pleasant mountain scenery with occasional meadows. It then deteriorated.

A surprise was a young Red Fox enjoying the morning sunshine on the hillside beyond the valley.

We were also able to photograph a genuine Bulgarian Sheepdog - although this one had more black than most and had lost part of its tail.

The track then changed to a long period along a very rough and full of holes ‘road’ hemmed in by thick conifer forest. One short stop produced three Woodlarks and the usual common birds. A new road has been built to join two mountain villages, one has to put up with this one in order to reach it.

So many Hirundines to-day. Crag Martins at first, then large mixed groups of mainly House Martins and Red-rumped Swallows. On passage through the mountain passes I guess.

Minko worked hard trying to find us some birds, to no avail - apart from a Pair of Goldcrests.

Another amazing happening. We had two more views of Hazel Grouse. Unbelievable. I didn't see the second as it flew low across the road in front of the car - and I sit in the back.I photographed the first bird through the windscreen but the pics were rubbish. Pam's, taken through the tinted windscreen,  was much better.

We couldn't find a convenient restaurant for lunch and contented ourselves with a sandwich produced by this morning's hotel. The eating place was interesting. What looked like a narrow cart track off the main road, past an enormous smoking rubbish dump. The undergrowth and bushes brushed the side of the car. At the end, the track rose to a high plateau with a tremendous and extensive view over several valleys and a reservoir. Minko drove onto a rutted and harvested field, setting up the scope to scan our surroundings.  A few Common Buzzards, a Kestrel and a Short-toed Eagle was the reward. No sign of the wanted Long-legged Buzzard.

Just as I was at breaking point from the unwanted attentions of a myriad flies, we called time and drove back. This gave me a chance to photograph a Speckled Wood, basking on a leaf.

The last part of the journey was largely urban, passing through a very large town, one of Bulgaria's largest, quickly reaching Sofia and its two million inhabitants.

Hotel VitoshaTulip is modern, set at the foot of the Vitosha Mountain and only 15 minutes away from the town centre. A lift to our room was very welcome, we're getting tired. Turning down another outing to the mountains, we sent Minko off to see his girlfriend at her parents', where he will stay to-night and to-morrow. 

It was good to have a shower, relax, do our last laundry and use the laptop to carch up with Emails.

Dimiter joined us before a very welcome dinner - we were extremely hungry - leaving us to eat so that he could go into Sofia for business. Minko will pick us up at 8.30 in the morning for our last day's birding.

What a Grouse

Tuesday September 13th

An eggy breakfast all round, after a cold and uncomfortable night. Pam has fried eggs, Minko and I had scrambled. The mattress is like a lumpy biscuit and the bed is very low for an ancient limper. 

The gorge stay was short this morning, the Wallcreeper has obviously gone. We called in a hooded Minko, who actually has long trousers on to-day, and set off up a different valley from yesterday's. No Nutcrackers in the town to-day. The valley was still deeply shadowed, with very few birds evident. Again we followed a stream and found the same herd of cows and cowherd as yesterday. The herd contains a very distinctive spotty cow. We saw our first handsome Bulgarian sheep dog but, were unable to photo him. 

M spotted a Dipper deep in the shadow of a tree, sitting on a branch - unusual in itself. The first thing I saw was an upside down Dipper. There was a perfect mirror image in a patch of calm water.

Some interesting fungi, Sheep's Nose 

and  Buttermushroom.

A cry from Minko gave me my first view of a flying Hazel Grouse. There was a pair, Pam and I only saw the one. I'm told that they are much wanted birds and seldom seen. Good one.

Apart from this, the place was pretty birdless, we re-did last night's valley and found some more passerines. Red-breasted and Spotted Flycatcher, Blackcaps, Chaffinches, Song and Mistle Thrush, Chiffchaff and Willow Warblers. We saw three Long-tailed Tits in the hotel gardens this morning.

Back to the hotel for a light lunch of soup and coffee before setting off up a different valley, past the sizeable town of Borino.

The road through dense conifer forest was extremely rocketty. A stop at a large clearing sent Pam and I in search of flowers. More Colchicum, the leaves of a yellow Verbascum

a small Violet sp and the scars left by Wild Boar. A live Red Fox ran along the road.

Minko had been checking for Crested Tits, when called we joined him and saw two birds very well. Delightful birds.

On we drove........waw. Two Hazel Grouse, one a male, scurried along the road ahead. I snatched a few pics leaning out of my side window.

Minko got out to try and re-locate them whilst we walked the road. I had a further flying view.

M was ecstatic, the best views he'd ever had of these birds. Birders walk miles in search of any sort of view. 
Minko rescued a small Grass Snake from the middle of the road, bringing it back for Pam and I to see before releasing it to the safety of the grass verge.
Another surprise was good views of an adult Goshawk, which dashed out of the woods and soared away over the hillside.

No idea of what this showy plant is, its centre flush with the ground.

Carlina Vulgaris (Minko asked girlfriend Maggie)

Another window view, a Hummingbird Hawk-moth feeding from a Thistle.

An early return, we are both tired so turned down another excursion. Almost as soon as we settled ourselves, Minko knocked to say that he'd found a Smooth Snake, would we like to see it. Of course. My photos are no use at all. As soon as it was uncovered - it was a large adult - it was off. Minko caught it and let it coil through his fingers - to the consternation of the hotel workers.

We are now sitting in the restaurant so that we can use the internet - the barman rigged up an extension lead for us. Another call from Minko and a fast (ish) removal to the garden. Two adult male Chamois on the cliffside immediately opposite the hotel, only 80-100 metres away. Brilliant.
 Off to Sofia in the morning for our last two days. We're told that there's a lift - a relief from all the flights of stairs.

A Cracking Day

Monday September 12

An interesting breakfast......a cup of green tea with a sachet of honey as sweetener, was surprisingly pleasant. The bread ‘sandwich’ topped with ham and cheese  is becoming familiar. The interesting part was watching the two tabby kittens chase, play fight, leap up small palms, use our luggage as a take-off platform and generally have fun.
To-day was travel day to our next destination, the central part between Eastern and Western Rhodope. All I remember is an endless succession of hairpin bends, climbing steadily along valleys bordered by forests and along rivers until the first stop at the very small skiing resort of Pamporovo. We were glad to stretch our legs at a flatter area with wide views, 

one large hotel and a roadside full of Colchicums, echiums and Chicory - amongst the rubbish left by passing motorists.

 

 

Pam amongst the Colchicums

Our first Mistle Thrush of the trip but not the hoped for Pallid Swifts which breed here. They must have gone. The air was appreciably cooler too.
The trip took four hours, the Hotel Orfei (Orpheus) was a welcome sight. Set in a narrow valley, backed and fronted by vertiginous cliffs where Chamois have been seen, an attractive alpine looking building. We had lunch outside seeing a Wall Lizard, a brown striped butterfly and a large Emperor type Dragonfly.
Pam's photo

The next three hours, from 2-5 p.m. were spent scanning the Trigad Gorge, a deep narrow chasm cut by the river Trogradska. At the apex of the gorge the river plunges into a cave - the Devil’s Throat - re-appearing further down the gorge. In an attempt to discover what had happened to parts of a wooden bridge which were washed down the throat and never re-appeared, the water was dyed. The coloured water did not come out at the bottom for 3 hours. Calculating the speed of the water etc, it was worked out that it had travelled 25 K !! Where?
Photography was a lost challenge - the contrast between the sunlit parts and the deeply grey rock in the shade was too great 

What we were looking for were these beauties. Picture taken from a poster.

No luck to-day, they’ve probably already flown to a lower altitude for the winter.
We did see the leaves of an endemic flower (another poster pic),

a Marsh Tit, Alpine Swifts, a juvenile Black Redstart and many Chaffinches.
On to the village of Trigrad where we stopped to check for Pallid Swifts. A cry of ‘’Look, look here’’ from Minko sent us across the road and down the hill a bit to see two Spotted Nutcrackers visit a Hazel tree, find some nuts, fly back to deep shade in a tall fir tree to thwack the nut on a branch until they could - very efficiently - swallow the kernel whole. 

Spectacular looking birds, I hope for better photos in better light. We also saw Pallid Swifts.On through Trigrad for a most enjoyable evening session along a single track road, following a small river, pastures on both sides most of the time. Dozens of Chaffinches in winter flocks, at least 50 Mistle Thrushes, Jays, Green and Greater Spotted Woodpeckers, a pair of Bullfinches and four Black-bellied Dippers. Absolutely lovely.

Not back at the hotel until 6.40 to find our adequate room, nowhere to sit and nowhere for my laptop set up. Worst of all, I couldn’t get internet access. I am assured that everyone else has it !! 
I must try downstairs to-morrow - the connection keeps coming and going

It Started With a Budgie

Sunday September 11

I decided that a 6.30 departure for the chance of seeing a Chukar Partridge was not a good idea - we've seen one before anyway. 7.30 breakfast........no breakfast, no sign of any workers, we're the only guests. We drove to a coffee shop in nearby Krumovgrad and ended up with what looked like - and tasted like - a slice of pizza. That, plus a small cardboard cup one third full of black coffee. The cups are always that empty and milk is thought to be a peculiar request.

Pam called a bird, Spotted Flycatcher, as we crossed a bridge, stopping for that made us notice a lovely blue Budgerigar pecking at an upright. Minko was very excited, this is a first for Bulgaria. Yes, we all know that it's an escaped bird. Part of the fun.

Our destination lay along a valley bordered by fields of cropped tobacco. The soil is poor here but tobacco grows. The leaves have all been harvested leaving bare spikes with a flower on the top. Cattle and sheep grazing amongst it gave rise to pre-smoked meat type comments. The leaves are dried on large wooden platforms and then covered with polythene.

Taking a track climbing a hillside, we parked below cliffs typical of Chukar territory and waited, scanning the whole time. The river plain below was again almost devoid of water, occasional birds alleviating the tedium. As did yet another lone Levant Sparrowhawk. Poor migration but we've done much better than average for this species. The usual silhouette only pic. with no ID features at all. A ''record shot'' indeed.

The ever hardworking Minko got us animated, he'd got a Chukar Partridge in my scope. It was way on top of the cliff peering over the edge, looking very good in the scope.

The whole of this Eastern Rhodope region is populated by Turks, a remnant of the Ottoman Empire. We drove an ever rougher track to a remote Turkish Village which didn't have a sign so is nameless to us. So many houses in the area are either partially built, unoccupied or crumbling. Such a shame. I don't know if there was electricity, no wires showing, there was a well on the outskirts. We added our first Black Redstart of the trip and had good views of a very active group of Sombre Tits.

Yet another off road excursion, he drives very considerately, gave good views of Whinchat

 and a juvenile Lord Voldemort (Red-backed Shrike) .

 A roadside, blue flowered, bush brought us to a hasty stop. It was full of butterflies of at least four varieties. So active, never settling for more than a second or two. Frustrating. I got some photos but none of them publishable, they may be useful for identifying.This was the only flower within sight, hence its popularity.

Lunch was at Hotel Diva, the usual Neophron stopping place, back in Krumovgrad. Turkish owners, Turkish spoken everywhere and food with a Turkish bias. We all had chicken bits in soy sauce with mushrooms and fried potatoes. Tasty - and we all smelt of garlic.

The afternoon was spent on a high plateau with tremendous views over the other vulture nesting cliffs. The first stop brought a surprise Golden Eagle perched on a pylon. The previous pair - which did not appear - specialised in eating tortoises. They caught them, dropped them from a height to crack the shell and then ate the contents. Like the Herring Gull with Mussells at Brancaster Staithe only on a bigger scale.

The end stop was stunning, again the Autumn colours enhancing the views. 

A map of the area

I can only imagine what it's like in Spring when covered in orchids and alpine type flowers. Now we had prickly dried vegetation, all of it spiky. Whilst waiting, we wandered about finding dragonflies, I photographed one at last,

the occasional tiny blue flower, grasshoppers 

and insects.

Pam and Minko botanising 

The show began. Thirty five Griffon Vultures spiralling in on the thermals, Ravens amongst them, kettling (rising together in a spiral) and drifting effortlessly away. The hoped for Black Vulture was seen early yesterday morning but, not by us. 

We were given the option of driving nearer to the nesting site which we gladly accepted. A circuitous route along a dammed river, basalt cliffs reminiscent of Fingals Cave beside the road.

Minko's Suzuki 4x4 does very well on the incredibly rough tracks he uses, this one, one of the worst. He usually walks this section. I saw a movement on a jumble of rocks which turned out to be a truly stunning, adult Black-eared Wheatear in full summer plumage. So bright that it might be the Western sub species rather than the usual Eastern found here. Too distant for a good photograph.

On the return jolt, FIVE Chukar partridges scuttled away from only 10 metres in front of us. The decision not to get up extra early vindicated.

Off to higher ground to-morrow , for another two night stay. 

MAMMALS

Until three days ago, all the mammals we'd seen had been dead. I told Minko that he was running an Obituary Safari. First the Horned Viper, then Golden Jackal, Polecat and Beech Marten. The first still breathing were Susliks ( Meercat type beasts), then one brown Red Squirrel. Pam saw a Brown Hare and a Weasel whilst sitting in the front seat. To-day we had three Roe Deer, one of them pure white.

Cliffs and Vultures

Saturday September 10

Leaving our only one night stay Hotel wasn't a hardship, although the Russian lady who served us breakfast was delightful. The usual continental cheese, sausage sp. and bread offering plus hard boiled eggs (cold). We both had one dry slice with cheese and another with unidentifiable jam. Minko went off to get our luggage as always - he's a good man - and Tatiana turned up with three bags containing something hot and savoury which we took away and ate late morning. Bread topped by a slice of ham covered in toasted cheese. It was very good cold.

M had seen Syrian Woodpeckers at the garage this morning. No sign when we arrived but, one flew through. A flying view at least.

A lovely drive through stunning mountain scenery, the acers already in their Autumn colour. We crossed two rivers which are tributaries of what becomes Greece's Evros and its fantastic delta. Due to the drought, rivers look like this.

One high area had been devastated by an extensive fire a mere two months ago. So sad, the first time M had seen it since. There were still the inevitable Shrikes and Spotted Flycatchers on the charcoal branches, a couple of Woodchat shrikes in addition to the Lord Voldemorts this morning. 

Cirl Buntings in a winter flock were a surprise and a delight. Good views of Lesser Spotted and Syrian Woodpecker eventually.

We arrived at the vulture nesting cliffs at 11.00 a.m. I'm sure that M was horrified to find ONE Egyptian Vulture perched high - but pleased to see one as he thought that they would have left by now. We sat at a stone table and benches surveying the scene, a river valley below, high rugged cliffs to the right.

Pam's photo

A very short time later, the Griffon Vultures started to sail in, I never saw any of them flap their wings in the couple of hours we were there. Giant sailplanes majestically surveying the world below them. My photos do not do them justice as all were taken from below, silhouettes against a pretty dull sky.

A second Egyptian Vulture joined the first, the only pair on this cliff and migratory whereas the Griffons are resident. There are 60+ pairs of the latter on the two sites in the area. They tried to introduce them in another area but they left and flew to this one ! 

A Black Stork was another photographic problem for the same reason, viewed from below against the light. 

The hurtling Crag Martins, constantly cruising the cliffs and swooping past us, were beyond my abilities.

The weather map yesterday was scattered with 28C temperatures  for the region, maybe I've underestimated the previous heat. When the sun came out, we were roasting, no shade.  I was reminded of Jax's story about phoning Dimiter, asking for cold beer as they were thirsty.

Despite M trying hard, we only heard Rock Nuthatch and Rock Bunting, not new birds for us so not a problem.

The rest of the afternoon was spent travelling towards the Hotel Enigma, birding as we went. A very wide and almost completely dry river bed - again a new experience for M - had one puddle below us, where we enjoyed finding and photographing Marsh Frogs.

We passed some splendid basalt cliffs, reminiscent of Fingal's Cave and The Giant's Causeway which I hope to photograph to-morrow.

These cliffs, full of niches, trace back over 2,000 years to Thracian times.

One town had commisioned a mural of an Egyptian Vulture on the side of an apartment block. Good painting of the head but why the egg containing a human baby, bottom left? I could surmise.......

The Hotel Enigma is different from the ones usually used in this town, the usual ones are full because of a wedding. Our room is adequate if sparse. Very large shower/wet room, working aircon and WiFi but, no bedside tables and lamps.

Supper was good. The menu was in Bulgarian only so we depended on Minko to translate and recommend. The usual Shopska salad for me - tomato, cucumber, onion, peppers, sprinkled with cheese and topped by an olive. We then shared a sizzling dish of pork bits, a good selection of various vegetables and cheesy chips. In these rural areas, chips are always served sprinkled with cheese. We're not complaining. We did share some meat with an adult cat and her two delightful kittens. Wouldn't dream of feeding from the table at home.
The only butterflies identified to-day were the tiny Small Bath Whites so called because a tapestry in the city of Bath had identifiable pictures of their larger cousins, the Bath Whites.
 
We've tried to find the place names but failed - the map doesn't have them, nor the itinerary - we shall have to buttonhole Minko armed with pen and paper to-morrow.