Raptor Fest

Friday September 9

Reluctantly saying goodbye to our very comfortable hotel with excellent food, we set off for Eastern Rhodope, an area of hills, upland pasture and woods. Another lone Black Stork was the only highlight until we'd left industrial Burgos behind.

At 10.00 - Pam checked her watch - Minko called a raptor, thinking it might be a Black Kite. Oh no it wasn't. It was our first Eastern Imperial Eagle of the day. I took some good photos - I checked at the time. BUT all those and subsequent shots I took to-day vanished when I transferred them to my laptop. Words cannot describe my disappointment.

We saw 6 seperate Imperials to-day.  The first a  surprise but not unexpected, the second a total surprise, the next three were two adults and this year's young, soaring near a nesting site. An adult bird perched on a pylon was probably one of the adults previously seen.

Before lunch, from a higher viewpoint near the town of Topolovgrad, overlooking pasture, cultivated fields, a small reservoir and mixed herds of sheep, goats and cows with their attendant shepherds, we saw:

Booted Eagle, pale morph, 4 White-tailed Eagles soaring together, Levant Sparrowhawk, Black Kite, Montagu's and Marsh Harrier and a Kestrel. 

In between times, Pam found a lovely dragonfly of which she has very good photos, probably a female Red-lined Darter,

and remarked on ants at the top of tall plants.  Cue Minko, who had studied this as part of his Biology degree, telling us about a hepatica flatworm species which infests the liver of grazing animals. Their eggs appear in the animal dung, ants are then infected by the eggs. The eggs make them climb to the top of plants which makes them more accessible to munching animals when the cycle starts again. I think I've got the gist of it, will check online sometime.

After an iffy lunch at the Hotel Imperial, we drove a forested area where logging was evident, seeing Peregrine, Sparrowhawk, Tree Pipit, Red-breasted Flycatcher, Spotted Flycatchers are frequent, the inevitable Shrikes and families of common British birds including Blackbird. Again we heard several woodpecker calls but only saw one Green Woodpecker flying up the road in front of us. Another Hawfinch seen gives me an excuse to include other pics from yesterday.

Minko photographing

An as yet unidentified butterfly taken from the car window with my long lens.

Another raptor viewing point very near this morning's brought more raptors, none of them different. It's been great to-day - apart from the photos.
We keep seeing butterflies but seldom have the opportunity to photograph them. A stop roadside this morning when we couldn't get out - too dangerous - brought good enough views of what proved to be Pale Clouded Yellows. Pam's photo.

Our room for the one night in Topolovgrad's Hotel Imperial is spacious, has three beds and air con with free WiFi. The three flights of steep steps up to it are not ideal !  This town is not attractive, it looks poor with verges in need of clearing and strewn with rubbish. Its attraction is the Imperial Eagle nest - its sign says so. Where to to-morrow?

Lunch With a Shady Hawfinch

Thursday September 8

Still no sign of any migration at the coast. Very disappointing, it was to be a highlight for me. We drove inland to a hilly area to check whether- or not - the easterly wind had driven raptors inland. Driving offroad, we parked in the shade looking down a meadow and across to a series of hills and ridges. The 'chairs' provided by Dimiter were far too low for me - and decrepit.

One dark phase Booted Eagle - the rarer phase and our second of that phase,  one Short-toed Eagle, one Honey Buzzard, 1 Montagu's Harrier, one Hobby and a few Marsh Harriers and Buzzards. Better than nothing.

The highlight was a flock of several hundred migrating White Pelicans,  spiralling and constantly changing formation over the forest. Lovely.

Moving higher up the mountain, another offroad trek across a vast area of apparently barren brown grassland - until we noticed the melons and gourds nestled amongst the grass. I thought that the gourds were stones......

Our first adult male Red Backed Shrike

The juveniles are so numerous - and Pam called them all - that they've been christened Lord Voldemort, 'he who must not be named'.

Given a choice, we decided to eat our packed lunch somewhere up here. Minko pulled off to a small litter strewn area beside the road where we could park in the shade. Almost immediately, birds appeared. Sombre Tit, Chiffchaff, Greenfinch, Chaffinch, Blue Tit, Jays Blackbirds and the best of all, a Hawfinch. The latter returned to feast on a Pendulous Birch tree's seeds, although annoyingly shaded all of the time.

Perhaps the lake we visited a couple of days ago was worth another visit. No Bee-eaters this time. 

Mixed herds always have at least one shepherd + dog (s) in attendance. Pam's photo.

The lone White Stork was still in the marsh, its badly broken right wing obvious. Will it survive the winter?  A Great White Egret and a few Spoonbills idled on the shore

A small blue flower showed well amongst the thistles and dy weeds. A Litrumu? salicaria (M's handwriting). The plough here looks like it's been turfed up in giant lumps and scattered haphazardly. Good for hiding birds !

I've tried at every opportunity to get a decent photo of a Crested Lark with its crest erect. Here's another less than successful attempt.

 Back to the Salt Museum area, where birds could be guaranteed, via a shop to buy some fruit for me. The Broadbilled Sandpiper was there again as was a Curlew Sandpiper. I managed to get some better photos this time as the light was better, shame I couldn't climb down much closer like Minko.

Fewer people mudlarking to-day, fewer birds too but, very enjoyable.

This was the last chance to photograph Daurian Jackdaws, the eastern race of Common Jackdaw. They're always on a busy roundabout in the middle of Burgas. We stopped long enough for me to snatch a few photos.The silver shoulder patch is diagnostic.

On to the Eastern Rhodope Mountains for our only one night stay to-morrow. After another hot day, we're hoping for somewhere cooler. We keep being told how unseasonal and unusual it is.

.

Woodpecker Fest

Wednesday September 7

The journey took us south west of Burgas to a relict beech forest very close to the Turkish border. This ancient woodland is Bulgaria's oldest nature reserve. 

It's called a mountain and we did climb well above sea level but, it's really a high hilly area.

At the first opportunity, Minko braked, calling ''Black Woodpecker''. I saw it, briefly, fly past the car into the nearest trees. He then started playing its calls and thez bird responded - not usual in the non breeding season- flying back across the road and then down in front of us for several seconds view of this huge black bird. Fantastic, a world tick for us.

Other woodpeckers heard at our various stops were: Grey-headed, Lesser Spotted, Syrian, Green, Middle-spotted and Great Spotted.
A Chinese Lantern type seed head is apparently that of a Fritillary sp. Minko will ask his girlfriend. We're too late for the Orchids, of course.

Passing through an attractive village, we stood on a bridge, eventually seeing a Syrian Woodpecker, Grey Wagtail , Blackcap, Willow Warbler and several elusive butterflies. Many fish viewable below us but no-one knows what they are. A ponderous and ancient Russian troop carrier shuddered the bridge, the border is very sensitive because of the migrants from Syria. At a police control, Minko had to show five different documents.

 Our sandwich packed lunch was eaten in a clearing near the river, an area dotted with trees which produced enough passerines to provide a lunchtime cabaret. A migrant Redstart still had remnants of its summer plumage.

Spotted Flycatcher, Chiffchaff and - to Minko's delight - his fourth only Garden Warbler. A pair of Ravens patrolled the sky, a Common Buzzard made a brief appearance and Goldfinches twittered an accompaniment.

A cold drink stop, although it was cooler up there with a lot of cloud cover to-day, before descending to the heavy traffic of urban Burgas and the lake where Pam wanted to see some more Pelicans. Not the spectacle we expected but a few were near enough for some photos - amongst the uncountable numbers of Coots, against the evening light.

Two Squacco Herons huddled in the reeds and a young Pelican practiced fishing.

A few Whiskered Terns patrolled the lake shore.

We were pleased to get back to-night, we're both tired. It's the intensive activity and the sun.
Not to mention my knees...........

Waderfest

Tuesday September 6

We spent the morning visiting various parts of the Burgas Lakes complex.  The best was at the Salt Museum where we sat on a covered area scoping the pans. The birds seemed unperturbed by dozens of Bulgarians of all ages, wading out, armed with plastic containers, into which they scooped black mud. 

Returning to shore, they then plastered the salient joints with the mud before standing/strolling about waiting for it to dry. Most entertaining.

There were hundreds of birds on view - but not the Terek Sandpiper Minko wanted to see for a Bulgarian lifer. The greatest number was of Coots !! Followed by Great and Pygmy Cormorants, Common Terns, Black-headed. Mediterranean and Yellow-legged Gulls. Most were perched on the rotting - teeth - like remnants of fences, the coots very distant. 

 
With careful scoping, a Broad-billed Sandpiper

fed quietly below along with Dunlin, Curlew Sandpipers, Great Ringed Plovers and a Kentish Plover. 

With the Coots were at least  four Black-necked Grebes, many Little Grebe, two Shovellers and a Pintail. A delightful, needle-billed and elegant, Marsh Sandpiper made a brief though distant, appearance. 

On the pool behind us, 4 Black-winged Stilts and our first of the trip and  desirable, Slender-billed Gulls fed amongst the usual Mediterranean Gulls. 

Slender-billed on the left, Mediterranean Gull on the right.

One adult Slender-bill, the others juveniles.

Back to the Hotel for lunch before visiting the BSPB (Bulgarian Society for the Protection of Bids) reserve centre at Poda. 

Climbing to an upper deck, sitting on chairs provided by Minko, we spent the next couple of hours surveying the area. Industrialised Burgas in the distance, reedbed and pools.

Very quiet migration wise, none really. The weather is still too good, 24C again but with more cloud and a stiff breeze this afternoon. I saw a beautiful Honey Buzzard whilst Pam was in the loo.........The rest of the time, we watched a distant Osprey fishing and eventually catching a fish.

Pygmy and Great Cormorants, the latter building a high-rise tenement of nests on old pylons.

Although interesting, it wasn't riveting. At our request, we were back for an earlier evening to catch up with laundry etc. before supper. The latter was the usual exchange of birding story-telling and asking questions re Bulgarian food, pronounciation etc.
To-night I had chicken skewers followed by chocolate ice-cream, Pam had pork  schnitzel and ice-cream. I don't know what Minko's was - a lump of lamb in a sauce which came sizzling madly on a hotplate.

Hot and Sunny Lake Tour

Monday September 5

Breakfast is not available until 8.00, a slightly later start. This very good and untypical September weather is not the best of conditions for raptor migration, we still manage to see some. 
An unplanned quick dive off to view some Salinas (salt pans) these very extensive, brought the day's highlight. Three dainty, twirling, restless little Red-necked Phalaropes flew in for a few minutes before just as hasty a departure. An unexpected pleasure. A Little Gull was also present amongst the Black-headed.

Three fishermen and we three shared the very restricted viewing area over the north end of Lake Burgas or Vaya, confusingly they both mean the same. Hundreds of Dalmation and White Pelicans in a heat-hazy white mass at the far end of the lake, one Dalmation Pelican sailed majestically near enough to consider a photo.

The rest of the time we spent watching Great Crested Grebes fishing,  constantly trying to satisfy the appetite of their stripe-headed, demanding youngster. Peculiar lighting conditions this morning. 

Hundreds of Coots, more than I'ver seen at once - and didn't want to - to-day. 

Parking at the side of a road, we then walked said road alngside a marsh on one side and the lake the other. Here we saw our first Black Stork appear over the mountain side before landing in the middle of a large group of Egrets. Two Kingfishers, a few Waders and a Pond Terrapin was the sum total. A marauding Marsh Harrier caused havoc for a while, before departing.
Minko went back for the car before moving on to another viewpoint, this time from a dry vegetated field above the water. A tiny bright orange moth was the main interest. The view was lovely.

More Pelicans, a few ducks , Cormorants and distant waders. We did see a flock of 80 White Storks circling the road as we drove, lovely.

Time to return to Burgas for lunch, after replenishing the car's gas bottle. It switches to petrol when the bottle's empty but gas is cheaper.

Lunch was a very good burger in a chain of restaurants called Happy, where the waitresses are all very small and have red skirts which hardly cover their underwear. Marko swears that's not why he chose the venue. The men wore long trousers and long-sleeved shirts ! Unfair.

The afternoon's plans had to be aborted. We drove to a lake where it's possible to drive along a reedy channel beside a marsh and above the lake, hoping for Penduline Tit, Rails and Herons. Passing a snarling vicious looking dog, tethered so it was harmless, a series of loud whistles brought us to a halt. Minko hopped out for an amicable chat with a local who said that the lakes were now for fishing and private. That was disappointing as the whole area is good for birds. Dimiter will have to negotiate access with the owner if he wants to continue birding here. At least we saw a Gull-billed Tern before leaving.
We counted at least six White stork nests in one village, a mess of twigs on top of a pylon is the norm, a base often laid as an incentive for them. Their presence is considered to be lucky. This one was occupied this year.

 

Another body of water..... this time a ringing station is set up in the reedbed, reached by a rough track. Minko spoke to one of the group who he knows well. They'd trapped a Wryneck this morning and had seen a Penduline Tit. We didn't. 

The next experience was lovely. A Levant Sparrowhawk appeared from the right immediately in front of the car, crossed in front of us and continued its speedy way through the bushes. Looking over a small and deep lake, the last one to freeze in winter where so many birds congregate that ' throwing a pin into it wouldn't reach the water'  - Bulgarian saying,  we added Gadwall, Lapwing and a Short-toed Eagle with a snake in its beak - Minko saw it well through my scope ! The light was of the soft, golden, late summer evening variety. Perfect.

Back to the Hotel soon after 5 p.m for a welcome couple of hours before supper. The food is good here and Minko has a fund of interesting stories for a 30 year old. Not meant to be patronising, his enthusiasm is infectious.

Moving Day

Sunday September 4

Not a good night, too many disturbances, Pam had the same in her room across the small landing. We've had a suite here. A bedroom each plus a shared and very large sitting room.

Her bedroom was small with a large toilet/wet room, my bedroom large with a small wetroom. I had both a single and a double bed, Pam a double only. 

Bags packed and outside the door before the usual enormous 7.30 breakfast, he stll hasn't learnt that we hardly touch it. I had eggs on toast and Pam the same plus a cheese and ham on toast. The coffee is lethal, thick and strong, the addition of sugar an essential. Minko has coffee only.

Our 220 K drive to Burgas, south of Varna, was driven on mainly side roads with several birding stops. Again the sky was cloudless with a maximum of 24/25C (especially for you Mags x).The Eagle Owl was nowhere to be found, the family has dispersed at the end of the breeding season. The scenic coast road took us past all the Black Sea resort complexes north of Varna, crumbling chalk cliffs and broadleaf woodland and shrubs garnishing the white hillsides.

Minko drove past Varna Cathedral especially, as I'd been asking about the Bulgarian Orthodox churches. This photo was taken from the car, please excuse the odd angle of the traditional 'onion-top' architecture.

Next stop was birding Minko's home patch, the area viewable from his home is wild and scenic. A Little Owl has taken over one of the holes in the deserted Bee-eater cliff. No sign of the Woodchat Shrike pair, just the usual Red-backed. Who can resist a Northern Wheatear? Not Minko and I.

Driving down a very pleasant valley, slowly, Minko was looking for something, Pam spotted a bird in  a tree about 150 metres away. Our first Lesser Spotted Eagle of the trip. Worth a photo even though it was a ridiculous distance way.

The end aim was a drive through ancient beech woodland, still plenty of people parked in scattered areas.  This weather is too good for September - and not the best for migration. No birds around to-day, late and hot. The highlight was a Great Banded Grayling butterfly. Far too fast to photograph.

A nearby extensive dune syatem is where Minko's girlfriend Maggie is basing her doctorate, studying its plants. He showed us a very small blue flower, the only splash of colour in a brown sea of dead vegetation. It's a Bulgarian endemic. He only knew the latin name and I can't remember it. I'll ask him to write it down to-morrow. Plenty of sunbathing Bulgarians but no nude ones to-day.

Minko and a group of friends look after a stretch of ancient forest, protected  especially for Semi-collared Flycatcher. They have erected 400 nestboxes, some of them occupied by Woodland Dormice which eat eggs and young birds! Useful. To-day, the Flycatchers have migrated but we had good views of a Middle-spotted Woodpecker, responding aggressively to its own tape lure and to the sound of other woodpeckers.

Neophron Tours boss, Dimiter, was meeting us for lunch at a roadside restaurant run by a Russian woman. We beat him to it by 20 minutes, sitting outside at shaded tables to have our drink, watch the last House Martin chick being fed and, photograph an extremely war wounded, Scarce Swallowtail butterfly.

After lunch  (this is where I fell face down onto the concrete path) and saying goodbye to Dimiter, we set off on back roads to a comparatively low level mountain pass. Towards the start of it, we parked next to some woodland, walking a short way down the slope. It took at least 20 minutes of luring, the bird flying around, landing in cover and then off again, before we had excellent views of a Sombre Tit. Burnt on my retina is the image of this desirable and attractive little black-capped bird, hanging upside down feeding. Like a bigger Marsh Tit with a much bigger black bib. There were Nuthatches, Red-breasted and Spotted Flycatchers, Green and Great-spotted Woodpeckers too. I musn't forget to mention the Robins, Chaffinches and Greenfinches.......

A fly past Lesser Spotted Eagle was the cause of another  screeching stop. I manage one photograph which is shown greatly enlarged.

The top of the pass gave panoramic view of miles of rolling hills where migration can be viewed - we shall return in the next days.

Our last birding session of the day was the best. A rough track down a hill towards the end of a reservoir, took us past a tree-full of Bee-eater, hunting around the car, landing for  while, then off again. Deligtful birds. All three of us took endless photographs. Here are a selection of mine. 

The marsh is pretty dry after so little rain. There were sheep, goats and cows wandering about, our first though distant White Stork

two Great Egrets, 20+ Grey Herons, Teal and our first Crested Larks. 

Reaching the part of the track which looked down onto the water, Minke got out with my scope, Pam and I scanned from the car. He called out what he was seeing and we did likewise. All very companionable. Amongst the Gulls. Cormorants and Spoonbills were Little Ringed Plovers, Little Stints, two Greenshanks, Ruff, Green, Wood and Common Sandpipers and White Wagtails. Pam then spotted four Short-toed Larks creeping along in the sandy/stony bank below us. Pam's photo.

That pleased Minko, as well as us, as we'd missed them where they were supposed to be - on the Steppe.
Tired and happy we drove to our Hotel for the next five nights. It's in a Burgas suburb off a main road but quiet. Guess what, four flights of stairs to our first floor room. The air conditioning unit was switched on very quickly, we were steaming. 
Having organised our electrics - I have to jam the converter plug into the two pin round socket by putting a bag and my handbag underneath - we suppered  downsatirs in the restaurant, having the usual wide-ranging and stimulating conversation with Minko. I'm more than ready for a good night's sleep.

Random photograph......